Much has happened since I last updates, so hopefully this is the first of 2 (or 3) blogs this week to bring it all up to date.
May was predominately rain which resulted in major frustration as the weeds snatched the opportunity to grow and thrive. Luckily we managed to get some consecutive dry days enabling us to get some weeding done. The weeds are still winning though
Our rabbit population exploded as a result of the bunny matings in April. Initially I wanted the rabbits to live as a colony but when we tried this last year we found the kits were getting eaten by the older rabbits. The, less than ideal, solution is the rabbits live in cages but a buck and a couple of does are let out into the compound for a few days. The does than go into maternity cages, and we keep our fingers crossed. So far this seems to be working well, the does don't get to run around as much as we would like but they do get some freedom, and we get healthy litters. We also purchased (second hand) 5 new rabbits hutches, increasing our number of maternity cages.
As we don't drink that often I'd decided to try finding drinks recipes, for preserving, that didn't rely on vodka, or other alcohol. So far we have stores of lemon balm cordial, elderflower (foraged) cordial and cherry cordial.
Somehow I managed to break the Bulgarian mini oven that we inherited with the house. Heating element decided it didn't want to stay at the top of the oven but wanted to drop onto the food being cooked. Paul managed to fix it but it did the same a couple of days later, luckily we have the halogen oven so not a major disaster.
We'd been given the opportunity to purchase wood 50% cheaper than last year so ordered another 10 cubics. Following a 9.30pm wood delivery we now have enough wood for the next 4 years IF our consumption is the same as previous winters.
At the end of May we welcomed Pauline and Guillaume, a lovely French couple who had contacted us via workaway, into our home. They are very different from Julie & Remi but also very similar in their enthusiasm and work ethic.
A week after the arrival of Guillaume and Pauline, Marcus (Australian) and Sarah (Malaysian) arrived with a very different view of the helper/host relationship and work ethic.
April 2012 we started a new life in Bulgaria. This is an online record of the highs and lows we experience by changing the rat race for a more laid back way of life.
Saturday, July 12, 2014
Sunday, May 11, 2014
A month of birth and death and more births.
Our French helpers have been and gone, if the rest of our visitors this year are as good as Remi & Julie we'll be very lucky.
Paul and Remi spent a few days replacing the fence down the edge of our fodder field. I think the concreting the posts in, to stop them sliding down the hill, took them longer than connecting the actual fencing wire.
During those days Julie and I got on with planting, weeding and playing in the kitchen, we tried some traditional Bulgarian recipes with English/French twists to them. Walnut milk was an interesting experiment - nice for cooking with but has a Milk of Magnesia taste as a drink.
Timmy (ewe) had been diagnosed with hypocalcaemia by the vet and, despite her (slow) recovery we weren't overly confident about her having a live birth so it was a nice surprise for her to deliver 2 live lambs. Unfortunately she rejected the lambs and our vet was most unhelpful, refusing to visit and telling us if we could get to the surgery before he went home he had some colostrum and powdered milk in stock. He had no colostrum, so we made a substitute, sadly it wasn't good enough and the lambs died - one after 34 hours the other 11 hours later.
Because of the time taken looking after the lambs, and Timmy, I neglected to keep a check on the incubator so failed to notice the cats had managed to adjust the temperature so we lost the unhatched quail chicks. My brooder design was also not good enough so the 4 hatched quail also died. We've learnt where we went wrong with the brooder so will give the hatching process another go, once we have everything modified and in place. Three weeks after giving birth Timmy also died, the hypocalcaemia and birth took too much out of her. Shaun (10 month old ram) is the last of our current big animals and is due to be culled next week - yummy, more lamb prosciutto to be made. We will then be taking a break, of a few months, from large animals before deciding if we get more sheep (my choice) or goats (Pauls choice). We did consider just continuing with the poultry and rabbits but lamb and goat meat is difficult to obtain here and with our own animals we know they haven't been pumped full of chemicals.
Talking of rabbits we had 2 does give birth at Easter and another doe give birth 3 days ago. Next week we'll breed another 2 of the does, followed by another 2 the week after, Bunny burgers will be on the menu a lot this year IF all goes to plan. We also acquired 6 (month old) chicks and 2 geese with 5 goslings so it looks like we may need to expand Poultry Palace into another outbuilding.
The little bedroom, which was my project, was at the install electrics and then remud-plaster stage. While Paul and Remi were installing the electrics Remi and Julie showed interest in learning the techniques involved with the plastering, and getting dirty, so that room is now much more advanced than expected.
It wasn't all work as a friend was having a birthday celebration a few villages away and the 4 of us had a very pleasant night out. Two days later was Pauls birthday and Julie was leaving for France, followed by Morocco for a wedding, so she cooked a brilliant birthday/leaving lunch.
We were sad to see Julie leave but she did loan us Remi for a further 2 weeks. Those 2 weeks seemed to include an extreme number of conversations between Remi & Paul regarding how 'to be reused' items could be repurposed into things that involved explosives and missiles. Boys will be boys - whatever their age.
Ok so apart from great laughs and some great food, including both of the chocolate fondants (should have been mousses) that Remi made, what did we achieve during April - other than losing an upsetting amount of livestock? We have a field fence, again. We have solar powered outdoor lighting, that works finally. We have guttering that feeds into our IBCs. We have a junk room well on the way to being ready for decorating and turning into a bedroom. We have the base for the pool nearly finished - we ran out of sand/gravel/cement due to underestimating amount need.
I have a better idea this year of when crops will be ready so have started devising recipes to preserve as much as possible, without using alcohol. So rather than fruit vodkas we will have lots of bottles of cordial this coming year, at least that's the plan.
Sunday, April 6, 2014
Since the last posting the weather has been mixed, some days needing just shorts and t-shirts whilst other days definitely justify bundling up before venturing too far from the house.
More crops have been planted and I experience frustration when seedlings don't appear and little (silly) bursts of happiness when a row of greenery pops up. Last month I mentioned the rhubarb my mum brought us from England had not survived the winter - I was wrong. We have a rhubarb plant, admittedly not the 3 we had last year but we HAVE rhubarb, Yeah
Paul has declared I have a root obsession. It took me 3 days (with lots of coffee breaks) to dig a 6 square metre area, previously uncultivated, to a spades depth removing weeds c/w roots at every spade full. The poultry loved me as one 2 metre row was producing a full bucket of weeds for them. The cleared area will be used for growing baby corn this year as the transplanted vines will not be established enough to affect their growth.
Also following on from last month, we cut and tasted the Lamb Prosciutto WOW it tastes awesome, even if I say so myself. We also had friends come over to scrounge some compost and used them as guinea pigs they agree that the taste is pretty awesome, I did do other items for lunch just in case they didn't like it.. Lessons have been learnt though - next time we cure and air dry a joint, of meat, we will debone it first. By we I obviously mean Paul who is much better at butchering than me, he prepares, I process, seems to work for us. Another conclusion was that if this becomes a regular occurrence we will need to purchase a meat slicing machine, getting the meat thin enough with just a knife is difficult and very time consuming.
As we keep killing the livestock, to eat, we (actually I) thought we better expand the range. Paul would like to increase the number of sheep we have and get some goats, I'm not convinced. We have bought 4 Muscovy ducks and bartered, some seedlings, for 23 quail eggs which will hopefully hatch in the next week. Incubating eggs is nearly as frustrating as planting seeds due to the 'wait and see' element of the process. If incubation is successful the quail will be for egg production and also meat. The 4 (original) ducks are not intended for the table although their eventual offspring will have no such protection. It is very likely that we will be purchasing some chicks at the market next Friday to replace the chickens that have either been killed by the Byalka (pinemarten) or wandered off, never to be found.
We have now been living in Bulgaria for 2 years and apart from occasionally missing my family and friends I have no regrets at all. One of our friends came over, for a week, 2 months after we moved in and is coming back this year, it will be interesting to hear her comments as I often feel that we have not done much at all, other than what seem like day to day activities. Other visitors this year include Paul's youngest 2 children who will be here for 5 weeks and possibly his aunt and uncle from New Zealand will be taking a week out of their visit to the UK for a detour to Lomtsi. Both Paul and myself will get to spend a week in the UK this year, independently, as airline restrictions mean an adult needs to accompany his youngest son. I get to see my family early July whereas Paul has to wait until mid August to visit the rest of his family.
On the subject of visitors, some of you are aware that we are registered with Workaway and Helpx - we host travelers, infrequently, throughout the year. These people provide us with help around the place in exchange for bed and board with the added bonus of new faces, topics of conversation and often increased enthusiasm for what we are doing here. Although we enjoy having helpers stay with us after 5 months of no (live-in) company it was daunting the week before the arrival of our first helpers of 2014. Julie & Remi arrived a week ago, during our communication beforehand I was impressed by their enthusiasm and sense of humour which is so much more impressive in person. If the rest of the 2014 helpers brighten our days as much as this couple we are in for a good year.
To round of this months update I had been thinking about a bee tattoo for quite a while but although I knew the bee I wanted I realised it needed something more, probably something floral. Talking to the local tattoo artist she took my idea and worked with it until we were both happy with the final design. The top of my right leg is now adorned with the most fantastic body art. No more tattoos planned - unless I lose something else important to me.
More crops have been planted and I experience frustration when seedlings don't appear and little (silly) bursts of happiness when a row of greenery pops up. Last month I mentioned the rhubarb my mum brought us from England had not survived the winter - I was wrong. We have a rhubarb plant, admittedly not the 3 we had last year but we HAVE rhubarb, Yeah
Paul has declared I have a root obsession. It took me 3 days (with lots of coffee breaks) to dig a 6 square metre area, previously uncultivated, to a spades depth removing weeds c/w roots at every spade full. The poultry loved me as one 2 metre row was producing a full bucket of weeds for them. The cleared area will be used for growing baby corn this year as the transplanted vines will not be established enough to affect their growth.
Also following on from last month, we cut and tasted the Lamb Prosciutto WOW it tastes awesome, even if I say so myself. We also had friends come over to scrounge some compost and used them as guinea pigs they agree that the taste is pretty awesome, I did do other items for lunch just in case they didn't like it.. Lessons have been learnt though - next time we cure and air dry a joint, of meat, we will debone it first. By we I obviously mean Paul who is much better at butchering than me, he prepares, I process, seems to work for us. Another conclusion was that if this becomes a regular occurrence we will need to purchase a meat slicing machine, getting the meat thin enough with just a knife is difficult and very time consuming.
As we keep killing the livestock, to eat, we (actually I) thought we better expand the range. Paul would like to increase the number of sheep we have and get some goats, I'm not convinced. We have bought 4 Muscovy ducks and bartered, some seedlings, for 23 quail eggs which will hopefully hatch in the next week. Incubating eggs is nearly as frustrating as planting seeds due to the 'wait and see' element of the process. If incubation is successful the quail will be for egg production and also meat. The 4 (original) ducks are not intended for the table although their eventual offspring will have no such protection. It is very likely that we will be purchasing some chicks at the market next Friday to replace the chickens that have either been killed by the Byalka (pinemarten) or wandered off, never to be found.
We have now been living in Bulgaria for 2 years and apart from occasionally missing my family and friends I have no regrets at all. One of our friends came over, for a week, 2 months after we moved in and is coming back this year, it will be interesting to hear her comments as I often feel that we have not done much at all, other than what seem like day to day activities. Other visitors this year include Paul's youngest 2 children who will be here for 5 weeks and possibly his aunt and uncle from New Zealand will be taking a week out of their visit to the UK for a detour to Lomtsi. Both Paul and myself will get to spend a week in the UK this year, independently, as airline restrictions mean an adult needs to accompany his youngest son. I get to see my family early July whereas Paul has to wait until mid August to visit the rest of his family.
On the subject of visitors, some of you are aware that we are registered with Workaway and Helpx - we host travelers, infrequently, throughout the year. These people provide us with help around the place in exchange for bed and board with the added bonus of new faces, topics of conversation and often increased enthusiasm for what we are doing here. Although we enjoy having helpers stay with us after 5 months of no (live-in) company it was daunting the week before the arrival of our first helpers of 2014. Julie & Remi arrived a week ago, during our communication beforehand I was impressed by their enthusiasm and sense of humour which is so much more impressive in person. If the rest of the 2014 helpers brighten our days as much as this couple we are in for a good year.
To round of this months update I had been thinking about a bee tattoo for quite a while but although I knew the bee I wanted I realised it needed something more, probably something floral. Talking to the local tattoo artist she took my idea and worked with it until we were both happy with the final design. The top of my right leg is now adorned with the most fantastic body art. No more tattoos planned - unless I lose something else important to me.
Saturday, March 15, 2014
More than I thought
Half way through March and this is Februaries blog. I kept procrastinating the writing as didn't think much had happened here, until I read last posting here.
The snow came and went in February and March started drizzly and not so warm but it is now sunny and warm - in fact t-shirt weather whilst working in the garden. Talking of the garden we have now installed a greenhouse 16' x 6' with a trickle irrigation system. I can imagine you all thinking WHY? considering the hot summers we have here. Currently the greenhouse is being used to raise seedlings and during the summer will, no doubt, be used for overflow planting and dehydrating BUT it's main purpose is to provide us with winter vegetables. The winter of 2013/2014 was remarkably mild with not much snow, however the previous winter was deep snow for extended periods. A greenhouse, hopefully will just entail us clearing a path to it for harvesting, rather than trying to remember whereabouts crops are under the snow and digging down to them.
On a less positive note when we started the van, to go collect the greenhouse, the cab quickly filled with smoke and the engine didn't start. Subsequent investigation, by Paul, discovered the fuse box had a short circuit which had resulted in some of the wiring loom melting - hence the smoke. Hopefully this will be resolved soon as we have some stone slabs to collect for the outside dining area, as well as some furniture which should have been collected end of last year.
Crops:
The garlic and onion that was planted last October/November is doing well, with the plants protected by cloches much further advanced - this has the unintentional result of successive harvesting. Unfortunately the rhubarb my mother brought over from UK for us did not survive the winter so we are now attempting to grow some from seed. The herbs had a mixed winter with the chives, lavender, lemon balm, mint and sage coping well, the rosemary is currently in intensive care with seeds having been sown just in case it doesn't survive. Talking of herbs I made a mistake when positioning the herb bed and placed it near the outside dining area, so have repurposed an old animal feeder into a backdoor herb trough, this will be moved into the greenhouse during winter.
As I type we have 8 varieties of tomatoes germinated, along with some annual herbs and sweet peas. we are still waiting for the trays of chillies, aubergines, peppers and brasscias to show themselves. Although in previous years we didn't plant direct to ground until the end of march/early April the medium to long term weather forecast is good so I've gambled on an early sowing of mangetout, beetroot and carrots.
The warm and dry weather also means Paul can work in the field preparing it for the sowing of lucerne (alfalfa) and maize. The field will be divided into 4 strips (1 lucerne and 3 maize) meaning 3 paths down the field, these paths will be edged with peaks planted with onions, carrots, beetroot, parsnip, mooli and turnip. Normally we would also plant garlic in this area but I think I may have overdone it pre-winter by planting 500 cloves, we will see.
Last time I mentioned making Lamb Prosciutto, this is a long drawn out process of curing a leg of lamb in a salt/sugar/herb/spice mix and then wrapping in muslin before airdrying it until it loses 40 - 50% of it's original weight. We are nearly at the desired weight and tastings will be happening SOON.
Out of cure, about to be wrapped.
I also mentioned the fact I was removing the mud plaster from the small bedroom in order to install electrics and straighten the walls (hopefully). I have had to admit defeat after removing over 90% and ask for help, even with step ladders, which I have an annoying habit of stepping backwards off, I struggled to removed the plaster from the ceiling.
The biscuit and cake making has eased off a bit as the weather improves and I spend more time outside. When I do make a batch up it is not all cooked but stored in the fridge and cooked in small batches which means we don't eat as many in one sitting but also if we need a sugar hit fresh baked cookies can be ready in 10 - 15 minutes.
The snow came and went in February and March started drizzly and not so warm but it is now sunny and warm - in fact t-shirt weather whilst working in the garden. Talking of the garden we have now installed a greenhouse 16' x 6' with a trickle irrigation system. I can imagine you all thinking WHY? considering the hot summers we have here. Currently the greenhouse is being used to raise seedlings and during the summer will, no doubt, be used for overflow planting and dehydrating BUT it's main purpose is to provide us with winter vegetables. The winter of 2013/2014 was remarkably mild with not much snow, however the previous winter was deep snow for extended periods. A greenhouse, hopefully will just entail us clearing a path to it for harvesting, rather than trying to remember whereabouts crops are under the snow and digging down to them.
On a less positive note when we started the van, to go collect the greenhouse, the cab quickly filled with smoke and the engine didn't start. Subsequent investigation, by Paul, discovered the fuse box had a short circuit which had resulted in some of the wiring loom melting - hence the smoke. Hopefully this will be resolved soon as we have some stone slabs to collect for the outside dining area, as well as some furniture which should have been collected end of last year.
Crops:
The garlic and onion that was planted last October/November is doing well, with the plants protected by cloches much further advanced - this has the unintentional result of successive harvesting. Unfortunately the rhubarb my mother brought over from UK for us did not survive the winter so we are now attempting to grow some from seed. The herbs had a mixed winter with the chives, lavender, lemon balm, mint and sage coping well, the rosemary is currently in intensive care with seeds having been sown just in case it doesn't survive. Talking of herbs I made a mistake when positioning the herb bed and placed it near the outside dining area, so have repurposed an old animal feeder into a backdoor herb trough, this will be moved into the greenhouse during winter.
As I type we have 8 varieties of tomatoes germinated, along with some annual herbs and sweet peas. we are still waiting for the trays of chillies, aubergines, peppers and brasscias to show themselves. Although in previous years we didn't plant direct to ground until the end of march/early April the medium to long term weather forecast is good so I've gambled on an early sowing of mangetout, beetroot and carrots.
The warm and dry weather also means Paul can work in the field preparing it for the sowing of lucerne (alfalfa) and maize. The field will be divided into 4 strips (1 lucerne and 3 maize) meaning 3 paths down the field, these paths will be edged with peaks planted with onions, carrots, beetroot, parsnip, mooli and turnip. Normally we would also plant garlic in this area but I think I may have overdone it pre-winter by planting 500 cloves, we will see.
Last time I mentioned making Lamb Prosciutto, this is a long drawn out process of curing a leg of lamb in a salt/sugar/herb/spice mix and then wrapping in muslin before airdrying it until it loses 40 - 50% of it's original weight. We are nearly at the desired weight and tastings will be happening SOON.
Out of cure, about to be wrapped.
I also mentioned the fact I was removing the mud plaster from the small bedroom in order to install electrics and straighten the walls (hopefully). I have had to admit defeat after removing over 90% and ask for help, even with step ladders, which I have an annoying habit of stepping backwards off, I struggled to removed the plaster from the ceiling.
The biscuit and cake making has eased off a bit as the weather improves and I spend more time outside. When I do make a batch up it is not all cooked but stored in the fridge and cooked in small batches which means we don't eat as many in one sitting but also if we need a sugar hit fresh baked cookies can be ready in 10 - 15 minutes.
Friday, January 31, 2014
Interesting start to 2014
Well what happened with the weather. We go into winter with stockpiles of essentials ready for being snowed in and mid January I'm building raised beds in the garden only for the snow to arrive and bury them all a couple of weeks later.
Admittedly it's only our second winter here but we were worried at one stage that the snow wouldn't arrive. Surprisingly it feels much colder than it did last year, even though the temperatures haven't dropped below minus 15 celsius. It may be that this year is more windy and we had some days of fog which dampened spirits.
The boys room has been put on hold as I'm too mean to heat parts of the house we are not yet living in, and I refuse to voluntarily give myself frostbite. The only part of the main house being used currently is the bathroom, which is wonderful when the petchka is lit and we can have a soak in hot water before getting out into a warm room. It's a guaranteed way of warming my feet up, which are rarely warm at the minute.
January feels like it has been a month of not doing much, other than keeping warm, but small steps forward have been taken on various projects, like the garden and the boys room. I think I have probably made more biscuits than normal this month, so another reason to look forward to spring and getting rid of the winter tyres.
Paul has been working on increasing the supply of pieces he is turning so that when we eventually list them, for sale on Etsy, he has a good selection of work to display. His work did get interrupted by a most unusual commission, it can't be every day a woodturner gets asked to make a new wand as the old one broke after the cauldron was dropped on it.
As a point of interest only novice witches use 'whippy' wands
We are also experimenting with making lamb prosciutto (lamb ham), more about that at a later date. The jars I 'put up' during the summer are supplementing the dried goods we stockpile in the run up to winter and some weird but tasty concoctions are being enjoyed. One gap in the 'made' jars is curry sauces - all the ones in the cellar are tomato based so research is being conducted into other options such as spinach and aubergine for this summers crop. I think a cabbage based curry sauce may be a step too far though.
There are lots of things that need doing but at the moment the weather is against us, although we have taken a gamble and covered half our kitchen table with seed pots of herbs and spices in the hope they germinate - it's really too early for them but if it works it frees up tubs for later sowings.
More about crops sowings, lamb prosciutto and room demolitions next month.
Love and laughter to all.
Admittedly it's only our second winter here but we were worried at one stage that the snow wouldn't arrive. Surprisingly it feels much colder than it did last year, even though the temperatures haven't dropped below minus 15 celsius. It may be that this year is more windy and we had some days of fog which dampened spirits.
The boys room has been put on hold as I'm too mean to heat parts of the house we are not yet living in, and I refuse to voluntarily give myself frostbite. The only part of the main house being used currently is the bathroom, which is wonderful when the petchka is lit and we can have a soak in hot water before getting out into a warm room. It's a guaranteed way of warming my feet up, which are rarely warm at the minute.
January feels like it has been a month of not doing much, other than keeping warm, but small steps forward have been taken on various projects, like the garden and the boys room. I think I have probably made more biscuits than normal this month, so another reason to look forward to spring and getting rid of the winter tyres.
Paul has been working on increasing the supply of pieces he is turning so that when we eventually list them, for sale on Etsy, he has a good selection of work to display. His work did get interrupted by a most unusual commission, it can't be every day a woodturner gets asked to make a new wand as the old one broke after the cauldron was dropped on it.
As a point of interest only novice witches use 'whippy' wands
We are also experimenting with making lamb prosciutto (lamb ham), more about that at a later date. The jars I 'put up' during the summer are supplementing the dried goods we stockpile in the run up to winter and some weird but tasty concoctions are being enjoyed. One gap in the 'made' jars is curry sauces - all the ones in the cellar are tomato based so research is being conducted into other options such as spinach and aubergine for this summers crop. I think a cabbage based curry sauce may be a step too far though.
There are lots of things that need doing but at the moment the weather is against us, although we have taken a gamble and covered half our kitchen table with seed pots of herbs and spices in the hope they germinate - it's really too early for them but if it works it frees up tubs for later sowings.
More about crops sowings, lamb prosciutto and room demolitions next month.
Love and laughter to all.
Thursday, January 2, 2014
Blogging hasn't happened since May 2012, as most of our family and friends have been following our progress on Facebook but we've recently had requests for updates from friends who don't use social networking sites. This post is intended as a quick bring up to date and then I will try to make time to update on a semi regular basis.
We have now been living and thriving in Bulgaria for 21 months, during which time we've made mistakes (not many and none serious), learnt new skills, found new inner strengths and laughed a lot.
Friends and family have visited, some loving it and planning return trips, others we'll have to visit in order to see again.
The house is still not fully renovated which can cause stress at times, but then I remember hearing of people who have completed the renovations quickly only to be dissatisfied with room layout, or more seriously location. We considered 4 possible rooms as the bathroom before we decided on it's final location
| We removed 30 bags of mud flooring before installing a wood floor |
| Another view from bath, bookcase made by one of our volunteers |
| Back of bathroom door, painted by my sister and nephew |
Most of the house windows, there are a lot, have been stripped back to bare wood and repainted.
Rewiring is being done in stages with separate distribution boards covering each area as done. Bulgarian electrics are 'interesting'. On the good side we no longer get electric shocks off appliances.
We have had 2 successful growing seasons and our cellar is now looking well stocked with preserved produce. The freezer is well stocked with animals we have reared and slaughtered - yes we kill and butcher ourselves. Currently we have 2 sheep, 7 rabbits, 6 chickens, 1 goose and 7 cats, although these numbers fluctuate depending on births and our requirement for meat.
| Garden - as was |
The coming year will see new techniques tried in the garden (assorted raised beds) and hopefully the garden terraced with flat paths and wide steps - I have slipped and fallen a few times on the slopes.
| This will be the base for the pool. Off the picture you have garden to left, fodder field to right |
The vines are being removed and new vines established in the bottom corner of garden as they attract too many stinging insects, for me to be comfortable - although we were impressed with A & E when I got stung last year.
No doubt in future posts I will make reference to things I should have mentioned here and you'll be thinking WTF but you'll just have to ask, if it doesn't make sense.
Love and Laughter to all who read. xx
Friday, May 25, 2012
Journey to New Life aka well we wanted an adventure.
Short version of the trip to the new life is:
Paul and myself left the
So the caravan, trailer, car and van are (over)packed, farewells have been said, nothing stopping us now it’s off to
Left Ellesmere Port Wednesday afternoon to get to Dover in time for the 4am ferry to
Dunkirk, actually arrived in time for 2am crossing, which was the same price
£200. Managed to get an hours sleep on the ferry and then headed to Adinkirke
(Belgium )
to get some cheap cigarettes for the journey.
Up until Bruges
I’d been towing the caravan with the Audi and Paul had been driving the van with
trailer behind, for some forgotten reason we decided it was time to swap the
towed vehicles over. Grabbed another
hours sleep here – now you’re possibly beginning to see why it was necessary to
stock up on cigarettes and boy did they come in useful when touring Antwerps’
many ring roads. This was added fun as
Paul had forgotten to print out the road by road directions I had spent days
working on, including reasonably priced fuel and food stops. The solution had been to write out the road
numbers, junctions and places to aim for and give it to Paul as he was in the
lead vehicle. Just as well we had walkie
talkies as relying on memory I ended up navigating from the 2nd
vehicle, once it was noticed Paul was missing overhead signs and struggling to
change lanes, due to the amount of traffic.
He blames the inconsistency of European road markings.
By the time we got to Wassmunster (near
Aachen ) the
nicotine was losing its effectiveness so we decided to stop for lunch, after
realizing we hadn’t eaten in over 18 hours.
Lunch was followed by a much needed, by me, 2 hours sleep and then on
the road again.
Just south of Koln
the trailer tyre blew out.
Unfortunately because of the terrain all Paul received over the radio
was ‘hard shoulder” and didn’t have a clue what was happening. As I hadn’t had a response over the radio and
he hadn’t stopped I sent a text letting him know the wheel was on the rim. What did people do before mobile
phones? Luckily Paul had pulled into
the next lay by and once he was aware of the situation dropped the caravan and
returned to try and get the trailer back on the road. 4 hours later I’m off the hard shoulder but
we’re not going anyway soon.
Once Paul was back at the trailer
the wheel was removed and trailer pushed onto the grass verge, as the bits we
needed to put the spare tyre on were with the caravan, in the next lay by, such
is life. Once the new tyre was on and
inflated we found a new problem – soft grass verge + heavy trailer = a long
struggle using various ropes and straps to get the trailer off the grass. We might still be there struggling if not for
an Iranian guy who although not dressed for the situation helped us manhandle
the trailer into a position we could hook the car up to it. Problem solved, Bulgaria in a couple of
days!!! Yeah Right. Spare tyre deflated within 5 miles and we
limped into the lay by, at least we had the caravan to sleep in although the
amount of stuff in there didn’t make for a spacious sleeping area. That combined with the busy train track next
to the lay by didn’t make for a brilliant nights sleep.
Friday morning …….. New day, sun
shining. Let’s get this tyre sorted and get back on the road. Flagged down a cop car that had stopped to
talk to ‘speed trap colleagues’ in the lay by and got directions to where we
could get a new tyre. Drove into
Fernthal (nice village) and although the garage in question couldn’t help us
the neighbouring
business owner spoke great English and directed us to a company called
Reifen-Weinz in nearby Rottbize who were fantastic. Refifen-Weinz supplied and fitted a new inner
tube with seal, which they manufactured then and there before charging us a
very reasonable €20; the time they spent on the job had us expecting a bill for
double that.
After the blow out, and Paul
mentioning he’d like to put more air into the tyre, my confidence in towing the
trailer wasn’t great so Paul went off with van and trailer me following with
car and caravan. Oh shit, is the van meant to be billowing that
much smoke and why is he going so slowly?
The previous day we had been keeping an eye on the vans oil
consumption and it had struggled a bit on the longer hills but this looked more
serious, especially when Paul radioed that he was pulling into the next
services (3 miles) and limped there on the hard shoulder.
Serious decision time! The chances of the van making it another 1300
miles, with or without the trailer) are remote.
Internet search time, whilst I put out a ‘scream for help’ on Facebook Paul located and contacted a
couple of nearby transport companies.
Facebook people, including those I’d never met, sent possible helpful
contact numbers and provided moral support, unlike the super efficient German
companies who couldn’t be arsed to get back to us. I also ‘phoned my level-headed sister and
asked her to Google nearby companies who could transport van and trailer to Bulgaria . She’s a star – texted me 3 numbers one of
which she’d spoken to and been told they could do the job and were only 20
minutes away from us. However by the
time we received the text it was too late to contact them.
Totally unrelated to the vehicle
saga whilst at Fernthal services we saw a flock of
Storks, we joked they were on their
way to
Despite the fact that Fernthal
services do nice coffee we needed to accept that a solution wasn’t going to be
found today. Fernthal services have a
motel attached that although not cheap (€80) offered us the chance to charge
our phones and laptops, have a shower and a good nights sleep.
Saturday. Left England 2 and a half days ago and only
part way through Germany . Just as well we had a good nights sleep and
shower as this morning is spent waiting for people to get back to us. At least German autobahn services don’t
charge for parking up for more than 2 hours, and although they do charge 70
cents to use the toilet you get a 50 cent voucher to use against purchases.
The company my sister found for us
aren’t interested once they find out we are not stuck on the autobahn and need
transporting to Bulgaria . Another Germany company (www.lenz.24.de) have a weird idea of time as
despite saying the could do the job never managed to phone us back with price
and time, after 3 attempts to get that information we gave up on them. A British guy, in Bulgaria, had seen my
message on Facebook and been trying to contact a Bulgarian he knew with a
suitable vehicle, however that option fell through as the Bulgarian was already
on a job which would take 3 days.
Good things about today? I’m not on my own, even if Paul is as
helpless, at the moment, as I am, and family and friends text messages are
making me smile.
Service station staff contacted ADAC
(German AA equivalent) for me, after I asked if they knew of any vehicle
transport companies. Whilst the service
station staff were helpful ADAC were anything but, turned up with a vehicle
that might just have taken the van but definitely not long, or strong, enough
for the trailer and offered to take the van and trailer to a secure compound
for €300 but that’s all they could/would do.
Realised after I’d ran out of
internet time (time limited at German services) that I’d fucked up, although
I’d put an appeal for help on Facebook I’d forgotten that Paul was a member of
a Volkswagen and a Truckers forum. We
might have had more success asking for help there, oh well, such is life.
Decided to take van down to the
garage we’d initially been to for a tyre, on Monday, and either get them to
repair it or allow us (Paul with my hindrance) to work on it in their
workshop. If they want to do the work
themselves, possibly leave van with them and ask English speaking guy next door
if we can leave either the trailer or caravan there until we return to pick up
repaired van.
As not sure how long we will be stuck here decided motel an unaffordable luxury so spending night in caravan, on services.
Might be Sunday but Fuck, Bollocks,
Shitting Hell, and Bugger. This is more
adventure than wanted!!!!!!!!!
Paul got out of the bed first and
made a joke about being robbed as he couldn’t find his jeans, I know he’s male
but how can you lose anything in a 2 berth caravan???? Went
over to show him where he’d dropped them – oh shit my laptop bag has
gone!! Phoned police who when they
turned up weren’t very helpful to say the least – did we really need a lecture
at that time about having been parked at services longer than was acceptable,
after all it’s not a campsite. I made a
phone call saying I needed help – the fact that I made the call and who I made
it too are both decisions that were out of character for me, but I wasn’t
thinking, I was acting on instinct. I
was scared – not about what had happened directly but how was I going to get
out of this mess and what implications did it have for the future.
We now had a broken down van with no
keys (in Pauls jeans pocket), no money or credit cards, no internet access, no
balance of payment to complete house purchase (yes I was silly enough to be
carrying it in cash) even if we could get to Bulgaria and the police were
indicating we should vacate the services.
A lot of crying, swearing and tyre kicking went on.
Paul supported me during my worst
times but when he thought I was strong enough to cope for a while he also had
his moments of despair. At some point he
‘phoned his brother letting him know what had happened and saying we needed
help from the families.
I’m typing this up over a month
later, from notes made in diary closer to the time, and it still makes me cry
(with gratitude) remembering how those
who love us worked to get us safe and achieve ‘the dream’. Tim, Paul’s brother was shutting his business
and driving over to either repair the van or transport it back to the UK for
repairs. Which he would do along with Pauls other brothers (all Volkswagen
specialists). Tim was also bringing some
cash with him to enable us to continue on our journey, I don’t know how they
managed to transfer money on a Sunday but thanks to Mum, Vikki & Sharon we
would get to Bulgaria .
It wasn’t just our families who gave
us help though. A German trucker (trucks
can’t travel on Sundays in Germany )
stopped for a talk and when he found out what happened suggested it wasn’t
uncommon for thieves to put gas into vehicles in order to rob them. More than that he distracted us from the
problems when he saw one of us getting down and did his best to keep our
spirits high. He was also useful for
arguing our case with the transport police when they wanted us to move off the
services, we eventually were told that we could stay another couple of nights
until help arrived. We were parked next
to a Turkish truck who although speaking no English, or German, when we started
seeing if we could get the van running got out his toolbox and indicated that
we should help ourselves to anything that we needed.
Paul had already rigged up a
‘toilet’ for wees in the caravan which we emptied on the verge in the morning
but I really needed to use a ‘proper’ toilet but it would cost us 70 cents and
we had less than 3 Euros. It had to be
spent but later when one of the transport police us €5 for showers it didn’t
matter how much I wanted a shower I wasn’t spending what limited money we had
on luxuries. That view didn’t change
when I found €30 and £50 in the pocket
of a dirty pair of jeans.
Luckily I’d put some food stuffs in
the caravan so we had coffee and that night we cooked up some pasta before
stirring cheese and tinned tuna through it – not brilliant but hot, filling and
free.
3am Paul woke up to find me sitting
on the side of the bed in tears looking out the window. I’d been watching the car, van and trailer
for hours and was knackered but paranoia wasn’t going to let me sleep, he
forced me into bed and held me to stop me getting up – it worked I fell asleep.
Monday was a good day, help was on
the way in the form of Pauls brother and a friend. Harry, a local military vehicle dealer, was
willing to store the trailer if the van couldn’t be repaired and needed
returning to UK . Surprisingly the fact that Paul told me what
COULD have happened when I had the blowout was also good – it didn’t happen and
I brought the vehicle to a safe/controlled stop – WOW pleased I didn’t know the
worst before the blowout.
We went to a nearby village but they
had no bureau de change so we ended up in Linz ,
on the Rhine .
A lovely city that we wouldn’t have seen if bad things hadn’t happened,
the banks were closed for lunch so we decided to be extravagant a buy a coffee
so we could spend a pleasant half hour or so people watching and relaxing.
On the way back to Fernthal stopped
at an Aldi for bread, water and cooked meats – food for the next couple of
days. We also received a text informing
us that Thunderbird 7 (aka Tim and Danny) was at Dover .
Thunderbird 7 arrived just after
9am, Tuesday, and after Virgil and Brains had been supplied with coffee rescue
planning began. Paul and I had already
left the trailer with Harry the day before, now we needed to go back to him to
ask if he could store more stuff as we needed to remove some wait from the van. What a lovely man – he located a container we
could use to keep stuff dry. After few
hours locating essentials in the van and redistributing items between car,
caravan and storage the boys disappeared for a ‘short’ time (about an hour) to
have a tour, and lust over, Harrys stock of military vehicles.
We were back on the road by
1pm. Paul and I in the car towing the
caravan on our way to Bulgaria
whilst Tim and Danny were heading back to the UK – Tims van towing my van on a
trailer. Don’t know about Thunderbird 7
but I just wanted to get the F… out of Germany .
Spent Tuesday evening in the caravan
on an Austrian services car park, after indulging in a purchased hot meal.
Managed to visit 3 countries on
Wednesday – through Austria ,
Hungary and into Romania . Austrian scenery was a bit disappointing, as
was passing massive hopping malls and remembering I had no credit cards
(*_*). I would have liked to spend a bit
more time in Hungary , the
scenery was everything and more than we expected from Austria .
For those of you who want to drive
across Romania
some points to bear in mind:
a)
Try to do as much as you can in daylight, it really is
a beautiful country;
b)
Have some planned stopping points, it’s a big country;
c)
Romanian truck drivers are evil, they will force you
off the road rather than let a slower vehicle in front of them;
d) The
ruts can be so deep that if towing the car can sometimes be forced off track.
e)
It wasn’t as
dangerous to stop as we’d been told.
With hindsight I’m surprised at the
relief I felt entering Bulgaria
Thursday afternoon. Yes, we’d arrived
but with less than half our possessions and an uncertain reception as the house
purchase couldn’t be completed the following day as planned. My brother-out-law had offered to loan me the
money to complete the house purchase so as long as Hristo and Tanchi accepted
the delay I would get my Bulgarian dream.
Andy and Sheleen were brilliant, they’d been fielding questions from the
house vendors about why we hadn’t arrived and greeted us will just the right
mix of hugs (Andy) and fatefulness/indifference (Shelley). Hristo, house vendor, was at the car before
we’d even got out, with hugs and invites to stay with him and Tanchi. It might have been rude but at that stage I
did not want to stay with people I couldn’t communicate with fully, I needed
familiarity and a hot shower. Again Andy
and Sheleen came to the rescue, when we asked about putting the caravan on one
of their fields we were offered a bedroom, which we declined – we were imposing
enough already. However we both accepted
the offer of the use of their bathroom and the ‘safe’ environment.
We were knackered, both physically
and emotionally, but we’d arrived in Bulgaria safely. If we’d woken during the robbery the ending
could have been different, as it could with the distance we had covered whilst
tired. As they say “All’s well that
ends well” but this wasn’t the end – it’s the start of a new life.
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